When I first ordered the mantle I was apprehensive about paying for something that I had not actually seen. When I opened the box I was a little disappointed because in the light it looked as though the lace had faded from black to an olive-brownish color on the edges.

On closer inspection I realized that it was not fading, but the cording which is part of this handmade lace was actually blanket stitched with an olive colored thread. I doubt seriously that this discoloration happened by light because the garment seams are stitched by machine with the same color. I showed it to Tara and she said that it could be thread that has discolored by age (even without light actually touching it) or that it was originally sewn with that color as a highlight.

The style of the mantle is difficult to describe, as it does not really fit into the categories of the mantles I have seen online. Its condition is like new. It is one you have to see to understand clearly, I think. Most mantles I have seen are cape-like in their appearance. This one is similar to a cape in the way that it is worn, but it does not look at all like a cape. It has no sleeve openings and it placed around the shoulders. 

There is no fabric or lace connecting the front and back pieces, instead two ribbons fasten near the waist prevent the mantle from shifting while being worn. This, with the correct dress, would actually look like it were part of the dress, not an outer covering.

The bodice area in front and back is “V” shaped from the shoulders to a few inches below the waist. It is made of black stiffened silk with a tiny diamond pattern weave. It looks and feels like a gabardine. Along the outer edges of the "V" there is large flat lace trim.

At the base of the “V” in back there is a long bow made of 3” wide black gross-grain ribbon, a diagonal cut was used. The bow itself would have highlighted the bustle of a skirt worn underneath. The tails of the bow hang about 18 inches. That makes it fall just above the back of my knee. The front area below the “V” has long flaps like a penguin tail. They are best described as half a bow (not knot) and pressed flat, also with a diagonal cut. They are made of the same ribbon as the back bow and fall just above my knees in the front. The "V" shapes in front and back are lined with black silk.

The large voluminous, cap-like sleeves are made of the same lace as the trim with black fringe about 3 inches long. They are not lined. The fringe threads give the illusion of being beaded. During the time that this style mantle was popular the "matador cape" was also popular. The fringe adds a sort of Spanish look. The lower edge of the fringe falls about elbow length. There is a wide flat silk grosgrain bow at the top of each shoulder where the “sleeve” attaches, very similar to the bow in back. The bow “tails” fall just above where the fringe starts.

The collar is a high, stiff mandarin style that opens in the front. The same ribbon of the bows accentuates the collar with small pleats on each side near the back of the collar. Because the shape of the collar is wider in the back than at the front, the ribbon is cleverly folded to fit the width of the collar.  This is difficult to see in the photos, but is shown in the detailed drawing at the bottom of the page

The back pleats fall open (due to gravity alone) toward the main garment in back as shown in one of the photos above. On each side of the collar front opening there are bow-like loops (one side has been cut straight across where the fold of the bow had been) that hang down to the middle of the bust area. These loops lay flat, as though they have been pressed into shape. This may just be a result of surviving 110 + years.

There are two hook and eyes that meet at the top and at the bottom of the collar and 10 that are spaced unevenly (1 1/2" to 2") down the front of the mantle for closure. On the "eye" side there is a 3/4 inch piece of fabric sewn in between the main fabric and the liner to prevent the blouse fabric from peeking through.

Around the waist there are two ribbons  (most likely it is elastic that has long since lost it’s stretch) to hold the garment in place.

The label sewn inside the back neck is a woven ribbon (green lettering on black) that simply says "Perfect."

Pattern pieces at the left are not to scale, the front and back color pieces are4 cut from the outer layer most likely Gabardine and the lining is silk. The sleeves and the lace overlay are cut from a medium weight lace. The front and back pieces are sewn together at  shoulder and the sleeves are fitted between the dots and gathered at the shoulder. Ribbon or elastic is sewn just above the waist line to hold garment in place while being worn.

There is not much history to report on my mantle. I purchased it online from www.antiquedress.com. Deborah (the previous owner) said that she had purchased it from a gentleman who has roving Museum collections, and that this piece had been displayed in museum across the country. She got all of her information from him, including the date made, 1892. I took the mantle up to Tara's costume shop to photograph it on a dress form. Yes, and to get some feedback from her also. She pulled out a stack of books and we thumbed through them to see if we could find something similar. We did not. However, looking at the pictures of gowns and blouses of 1892, we received confirmation that the shoulder bows were indeed very much "in" that year.

Depending on the climate, the mantle would not have been worn during the cold winter months, but fall or late summer while visiting. The mantle did not need to be removed while indoors as it was not intended to be worn for warmth. I do not think that it was custom made, but most likely not mass produced either. the only machine stitching is at the shoulder seams and where the collar attaches to the lining.  There is a lot of hand stitching on the lace itself, where the lace attaches to the lining, where the side ribbons attach to the lining and the hook and eye closures.        

The drawings at the left may give you a better idea of what the mantle looks like. The front view is a very simple outline of the mantle as shown in the photograph (where I am wearing it.) The second drawing shows pretty closely what the mantle would look like if it were laid flat without the bows attached or side elastic (ribbons) fastened.

For storage, Deborah suggested I hang it on a padded hanger as there is virtually no weight to it. I live in a very dry climate which is good as there is no concern for mildew or mold. And I have already made a muslin garment bag to store it in to protect it from dust.

What is the future of this exquisite piece? I will most likely wear it at some point in the future. It fits perfectly and although I want to preserve it in the state it is in, I also think it deserves to be seen and admired for it's uniqueness. I can only think of a few times it would be appropriate, as it would need to be worn with a long skirt of simple cut and rich textured fabric like velvet or silk, holiday get together or a special night out most likely.