Assignment can be found at: http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/ancientassignments.html

Tara Maginnis is the instructor for this course.

For a link to dozens of galleries and private dealers, try this one:

http://www.ancientartmag.com/Galleries.html

A great site for custom made Egyptian jewelry is:

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/egyptianjewelry/              

If you are looking for ready made jewelry, you may want to try one of these sites:

http://www.oldcoal.com/p125-288-nice-egyptian-silver-gift-pendant-new.html

http://www.cartouchejewelry.com/

http://www.sapivi.co.uk/uk/jewellery/egyptian-jewelry.html    (This one has many very nice links)

Week 3 pt 1

In studying what the prophet had to say about proper clothing, I learned that it is not just the women that had restrictions and guidelines for appropriate attire. All Muslims, women and men, are instructed to dress modestly. In general, this means that no bodily shape should be discernable beneath the clothing, so that temptation of the opposite sex cannot occur. I found an article that also said that men in particular were not allowed to expose any part of their body between the navel and the knee, that he is not allowed to wear any items of yellow gold, and that except under certain circumstances he is not allowed to wear pure or natural silk. Those same restrictions were not listed for a woman. From a religious stand point; the Muslim law for women tends to sound like the same as the orthodox Jew. For example; Muslim and Jewish women are prohibited from wearing men's clothing, as men are from wearing women's. Men and women are to be clothed from their necks to their ankles, including their arms.

In looking at the pictures of medieval women’s clothing, I see some similarities and some differences. Both clothing types cover the female body in a modest way. Clothing is long, layered, and usually fairly loose. Pictures and paintings of women during medieval times usually show the women with some type of head covering. One difference that I see is that the women’s fashion during medieval times were already beginning to lean towards a style where the women’s shape was becoming noticeable, but not quite to the point of “temptation”. Wearing of long layers would have advantages in cool and warm climates, as they would act as insulation and ventilation.

When some of us see a woman wearing a hijab these days, we may assume that she wears it because she must. Some may assume that she is religious and that she wears her clothing to please Allah, and that is her choice. I would think that that when a Muslim man sees a woman wearing one, he thinks the same thing and automatically has some respect for her.

Wearing conservative clothing such as many Muslim’s do may seem to be very restricting. I think however that for the most part women are protected from being harassed and possibly the opportunity to advance in a men’s world may actually be increased as men are not seeing her as a sexual object but are forced to see her for who she really is. If women want to be treated with respect, as equals, and be taken seriously, having no distractions such as her physical looks could be the way to go.

There is a relatively small group of Orthodox Jews known as Hasidim. They have built communities all around the world, including in the United States and are easily recognizable by their distinctive dress and the style their hair is worn.

The clothing that the men wear is associated with the nobility of 18th-century Poland, but the style in which men wear their hair and specifics of their prayer shawl are Jewish and based on the Torah, the first five books of the bible, said to have been written by Moses.

There are six articles of clothing typical in a Hasidic males wardrobe: a wool beskeshe (a suit with long tailored jacket) usually black, but could be dark blue or dark gray and a fedora (felt hat) for everyday wear.   For Shabbat and other holidays, a black silk or satin beskeshe is worn and a streimel (circular hat made of fur) is worn. Most importantly, a prayer shawl with fringes on the corners (called with tzitziyot)  is always worn.

The practice of religious Jewish males (not just Hasidic Jews) wearing a head covering dates back several thousand years when only free men were allowed to go bareheaded. The Jews adopted this practice as a reminder that they were servants of God. It has become a way that the Jewish people show reverence to God, “Cover your head, so that the reverence of Heaven be upon you” (Shabbat 156b). Those who wear a hat usually also wear a kippah, yarmulke, or skullcap under it. There is no special significance to the colors or designs in which kippah is made, except that white ones are usually worn during high holiday to signify purity. The kippah was originally an indoor hat and a regular hat was worn over it when outside the house. Many Jews today still wear both a kippah and a hat or cap. In other branches of Judaism the kippah is also worn, and is considered less formal that the fedora or streimel, which are worn by the various branches of Orthodox Jews. It is common for Hasidim to wear brimmed hats inside the house and even at the dinner table. This is not considered rude. In fact, if you are a man and come to a Hasidic table without some type of a head covering, you will be asked to put one on.

The Torah commands “You shall not round the corners of your heads, nor mar the edges of your beards.” For this reason many Orthodox men, most notably Hasidic Jews, do not shave their heads nor cut their hair very short near the area above their ears. The rest of their hair is usually cut very short, as it is more comfortable under a hat. Before the age of three, a boy’s hair is not cut. At that age however, his hair is cut except for side curls, or payos. The length for payos varies, but the minimum is long enough that you can grab a hair and curl it around towards its own root, many Hasidim wear them longer. Some men curl them and let them hang in front of their ears; others tuck them behind the ears or up under their hat or kippah.

Aside from the length of their sidecurls, there is little self-expression in the dress of the Hasidic male. Clothing is one of the ways that they purposely set themselves slightly apart from the rest of the world.

Hasidic women, on the other hand have a reputation for dressing quite fashionably, including wearing makeup and jewelry. The only real requirement is that their dress be modest, not tight or revealing in any way. The clothing must reach to the collarbone in front, and to the nape of the neck in back. Long sleeves are required (for men and women.) Dresses or skirts are required, but pants are considered men’s clothing and are forbidden by Torah.  Married women also are required to cover their hair. A wig is often worn, but scarves and hats are also used. There is no requirement for women to shave their heads after they marry, but many women choose to keep their hair cut very short. They believe that they should conceal their bodies in long clothing and their hair with wigs or other coverings so that their “sexual energy” will not arouse men. For Yom Kipper, many women wear only the color white, as it signifies purity.

It is rare that you will see a Hasidic man and woman that are not married to each other touch, even to shake hands. It is also very uncommon for unmarried men and women to look into another’s eyes. There is a high regard and respect for the other sex. They, both men and women, consider their bodies to be sacred and not for everybody else's gaze or touch.

Rabbi Benzion's Twerski says, "The hope is that the garb will influence (the wearer) and bring about the things that Hasidic Jews hold dear: joy, intensity in service, kindness to others, love of the Torah."

Assignment can be found at: http://www.costumes.org/classes/fashiondress/16thCent.htm

I couldn’t make up my mind as to which film to write about, I had seen a few. I chose Everafter, as it was really the only one appropriate for everyone in the house to watch, and I needed to refresh my memory by watching it again. Everafter is a somewhat more plausible take on the traditional version of the Cinderella story. I say more plausible as there is no magic or fairy godmother to step in and rescue poor Cinderella. In this family orientated romantic adventure, our wise and caring heroine Danielle overcomes tremendous odds to make her dreams come true.

        The costumes used were wonderful. They helped portray not only the time period in which the story is to have happened, but also the station of the character. The colors and fabrics of the costumes vary with the cast members as well. Danielle (as an adult) wore the same dress (a white under-dress with medium-blue sleeve pieces, bodice and skirt) throughout the movie, with the exceptions of the times she was playing the part of the countess. As the Cinderella story goes, she was treated as a servant girl, new clothing would have been a luxury that she was afforded. Her clothing however was not of the same fabric as the other servants, which were dull, drab colors and seemed of a rougher fabric. Her stepmother and stepsisters wore various gowns, changing as the story unfolds. The colors were bright and the fabric looked to be velvets, brocades, satins, etc. This helped the viewer to get a feel of the lavish tastes of the family.

        I enjoyed watching the movie for the costumes alone. The costume designer did a fantastic job of recreating the mood and setting using color, fabric and imagination. The viewer gets a good sense of what both men and women wore in 16^th century France, both at court and at home for the peasant and the upper class.

          Robert Herrick's writings were, I think written in a literal sense. It is obvious to me that he had a good sense of humor and that he took much pleasure in watching women (or should I say their gowns.) His view of clothing was the lesser the better “Give me my mistress, as she is, Dress'd in her nak'd simplicities.” He liked the casualness of “Order in a sweet neglect,” such as a loose ribbon fluttering in the wind or an untied shoelace.

Herrick speaks of silks, airy fabrics such as lawn, fabrics that seem to breathe or move of their own accord. Fabrics that make the clothing come alive "Thy azure robe I did behold....sometimes 'twould pant, and sigh, and heave", “And all those airy silks to flow, Alluring me, and tempting so” and “A winning wave (deserving note), In the tempestuous petticoat.”

After reading many works of Robert Herrick and the biographies on him, I still have no clue as to where he was coming from. Was he a lecherous sort of man that took pleasure in many mistresses enjoying whatever sexual pleasures he could from them? Many of his poems are written with explicit sensual, sexual continent or innuendos. Alfred W. Pollard writes of Robert Herrick, “His conception of religion was medieval in its sensuousness, and he probably repeated the stages of sin, repentance and renewed assurance with some facility.”

I think that there are many reasons why women today chose to wear corsets. Many have lost their girlish figure due to childbearing, age or one too many dinner’s at Gambardella’s Pasta Bella. In the relatively short amount of time that it takes to put it on, the corset provides a way to achieve an hourglass body shape that many people think is more attractive. I must admit, the thought of having an hourglass shape just makes me feel more graceful and elegant.  Face it; an elastic girdle just doesn’t have the same sex appeal either.

I really like some of the corsets that I have seen online. There are those that are seductive in a very demure way and then there are those that scream wild sexy nights. The corsets advertised by Delicious Corsets look like someone had a lot of fun just designing them, let alone wearing them. The Circus and Insect Collections were my favorites.

Paper Oriental

I have chosen a black lacy mantle as the object for researching for my final project. This has probably proven to be the most difficult research assignment thus far, as I have been unable to find pictures of a mantle similar in style to mine. The only mantles on E-bay were for a fireplace or window, a different sort altogether. The garment mantles that I have located are of two types; a cape or a jacket with peplum.

The style of the mantle is difficult to describe, as it does not really fit into the categories of the mantles I have seen online. Its condition is like new. It is one you have to see to understand clearly, I think. Most mantles I have seen are cape-like in their appearance. This one when worn with the correct dress, would actually look like it were part of the dress, not an outer covering. The bodice area in front and back is “V” shaped from the shoulders to a few inches below the waist. It is made of black stiffened silk with a large flat lace trim along the outer edges of the “V”. At the base of the “V” in back there is a long bow made of 3” wide black gross-grain ribbon. The bow itself would have highlighted the bustle of a skirt worn underneath. The front area below the “V” has long flaps like a penguin tail, not really like a bow, but the same width and fabric as the bow in back.

Another mantle that I found looks be an oblong shaped cape with roll-down collar. A description of the mantle is located at the site if you click on the image.  

I also found some pictures of mantlelets. I have only included two here, but if you care to click on them it will take you to the site where there are several more. I love this site! Much time and effort has been put into it's over 100 pages. Thank you to Pauline who owns the site for allowing me to use these photos. 

Outline of garment

The second drawing shows what the mantle would look like if laid flat without any bows or ribbons. The ties extending from the sides are there to show where the elastic or ribbon would be placed.